- Frederick Sound - Look for humpbacks breaching in Frederick Sound
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Frederick Sound is a body of water approximately 45 miles wide in the central part of Southeast Alaska, at the confluence of Portage Bay (West), lower Stephens Passage (North), and Chatham Strait between the communities of Juneau (North) and Petersburg (South). Frederick Sound is only accessible by boat or air. Abundant krill (small, shrimp-like crustaceans), zooplankton and herring thrive in the glacially-fed waters of Frederick Sound, making it one of the premier places in Alaska to observe feeding humpback whales. It is estimated that over 500 of the 1,000 humpbacks that migrate annually to Alaska from Hawaiian breeding grounds head particularly to Frederick Sound to feed in its super nutrient rich waters. Marine mammal abundance in the sound also includes orcas (killer whales), Steller's sea lions, Dall’s porpoise, and harbor seals. A variety of seabirds thrive in this region as well and can be observed flying overhead or flocking after the whale’s watery leftovers, creating a great clue to where the humpbacks might be. Surrounding the sound are the majestic craggy snow-covered mountains of the Coast Range rising from the sea to grand heights of 10,000 feet.
- Hyder - Watch bears feed on salmon outside of Hyder
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Hyder is the only community in southern Southeast Alaska that is accessible by road and sea. It is located at the head of Portland Canal, a 70-mile long fjord that is part of the U.S./Canada border east of Dixon Entrance. The Canadian town counterpart of Hyder is Stewart, British Columbia, Canada’s most northerly, ice-free port. Both communities are 75 air miles from Ketchikan and are located in a maritime climate zone with moderate seasons, receiving tremendous amounts of snowfall each winter. Nass River Indians used this area as a seasonal berry-picking and bird-hunting site and as a retreat from the harassment of coastal Haida tribes. The first non-native explorer in Portland Canal was Captain D.D. Gillard of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. In 1898, gold and silver were discovered in the upper Salmon River basin on the Canadian side. Hyder was originally called Portland City until 1914 when it was named for Frederick Hyder, a Canadian mining engineer. Hyder’s boomtown years were between 1920 and 1930 when it became the ocean port, supply point and post office for miners extracting silver, copper, gold, lead, zinc and tungsten from the U.S. Riverside Mine. In 1948, the original town built on pilings was destroyed by fire. By 1950 the Riverside mine closed, and by 1956 all major mining closed except for the Canadian Granduc Copper Mine which closed in 1984. The surrounding fjord and mountain scenery is spectacular, with Hyder’s population of approximately 100 depending primarily on tourism dollars in this now tiny “ghost town.” The abundant bear population that feeds on prolific salmon streams offers great viewing opportunities for visitors and recreational fishing is a favorite past time with halibut, salmon, shrimp and crab being some of the favorite resources. There is a health clinic, a public library, some restaurants, cafes, motels, bars, a post office, and a museum/visitor center in present-day Hyder. - Icy Strait - Enjoy the scenery in Icy Strait
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Icy Strait is a body of water in Southeast Alaska that is located between Chichagof Island and the mainland, and extends 40 miles northwest from Chatham Strait to Glacier Bay and Cross Sound. Icy Strait’s nutrient-rich waters are abundant with marine mammals, sea birds and the scenery is spectacular. - Misty Fjords National Monument - Admire the beauty of Misty Fiords' granite cliffs and shrouded forests
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Misty Fiords is south of Ketchikan on the border with Canada. As we begin our journey into Behm Canal, the seemingly quiet entrance becomes more and more narrow as we pass New Eddie Stone Rock. This geologic oddity is the remnant of a “volcanic plug” rising out of the middle of this passage, and named for resembling a lighthouse back in England by Captain George Vancouver. It is just the first glimpse at many of the geological features seen while in the Misty Fjords National Monument. In addition to enjoying the beauty of the landscape and waterways, visitors may spot whales, porpoise, and orca. This national monument was created in 1980 and consists of over two million acres. Misty Fiords was carved out by the last great North American glaciation, leaving narrow winding granite walls to guide our ship deep into the wilderness. Many of these winding passageways open to large granite amphitheaters of rock rising some 3,000 feet out of the water. One, aptly named “Punchbowl Cove,” looks just like that, and it is as if our small ship is floating in a giant bowl of granite. This protected wilderness area is a place where we may spot brown bear and mountain goats. As if by magic, the forest holds onto these steep walls and flourishes on incredibly abrupt slopes coming down to the waters edge. It is common to see bald eagles here swooping down from these trees to take salmon out of the water. Often the mist and clouds will hover throughout the fiord, shrouding your whole experience in what seems like a dream. Cruising through Misty Fiords is like traveling through a mystical storybook, with epic walls of rock and deep, dark forests winding through small canyons and passages. You will never know or guess what lies around the next corner. Tracy Arm - Enter the surreal world of Tracy Arm and the twin Sawyer Glaciers Tracy Arm quickly becomes a favorite place for those who visit. It is perhaps one of the most dramatic locations in all of North America. This fantastic fjord rivals if not surpasses the fjords of Norway and New Zealand. Completely protected within the Tongass National Forest, this fjord stretches some 25 miles up into the Coastal Range Mountains. These snow- and glacier-filled mountains over 7,000 feet tall drop immediately to sea level. We will be surrounded by sheer 1,500-to 2,000-foot walls of granite falling into the extremely narrow passage, creating countless waterfalls and strange rock formations covered in forest, and trees hanging onto precipices at impossible angles. Bears, mountain goats, and other fur-bearing animals live here, on a terrain you would think has to be devoid of such large animals. You might spot a bear in a spot that does not look possible. Twisting and turning, not being able to see what is around the next corner, you will be presented with a continual flow of scenery that could only be compared to Yosemite National Park but filled with over 1,000 feet of water! Here killer whales come to prey upon harbor seals who think they have safely hauled out on the ice to give birth or molt their fur. Each turn will present a new view of waterfalls and “u”-shaped valleys, carved out by ice in the not-so-distant past. At the head of the arm is our true destination, the two Sawyer glaciers that carved out the fjord. As we make our way to the head of the fjord, we will pass through a field of icebergs that will bump into the ship as we push them out of the way. We will be entering a surreal world you could not imagine, with ice more blue than the sky itself. When we arrive at the face of the glaciers, we will no doubt see hundreds of harbor seals laying on the ice. If we are fortunate, a building-size piece of ice will break off the glacier's face only to crash and thunder into the water below, creating massive waves that will rock our ship as our guests cheer. - Glacier Bay National Park - Keep your camera poised as we search for wildlife in Glacier Bay
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Glacier Bay Park and Preserve is reportedly the most sought after park to visit in the United States and it is no wonder. Where else will you find a 25 mile-long river of ice still carving the land just as it has for the past several thousand years? When Captain Cook and George Vancouver sailed by in 1879, they saw a 20-mile wide glacier where today the entrance of the park lies, as well the wilderness lodge and park headquarters. Over the past 200 years, this wall of ice has retreated an astonishing 65 miles north, splintering into a vast number of tributaries spaced throughout the entire park. Each glacier has its own name and character; our captain will decide which to visit for the day depending on ice conditions and wildlife sightings. Visiting Glacier Bay Park is also like visiting a wildlife park. Here bears, goats, moose, whales, sea otters, and all the creatures of the water and forest flourish, completely protected from man. A National Park Interpreter will join us on this day for our entire journey. He or she will explain the park's geology, glaciology, wildlife, and its deep roots in Tlingit culture, bringing the park alive on a level that will keep you engaged the entire time we are there. Sitka, Alaska - Explore Tlingit and Russian culture in Sitka -
Sitka lies in the shadow of the Mt. Edgecumbe volcano. This dormant volcano is unlikely to erupt in your presence, as it has not done so in 6,000 years. The ancient crater adds to the energy of a landscape that is interwoven with the Tlingit and Russian cultures that make up Sitka’s past and present. Sitka was the Russian Capitol of Alaska before it was sold to the United States in 1867. The remnants of its architecture, also known as the “Paris of the Pacific,” are all still apparent, especially with St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral which dominates the town’s skyline. In the middle of town, the Tlingit ceremonial long house will also capture your attention. It is these two cultures, the Russian and the Tlingit, that in times past clashed and fought fiercely in Sitka. The Tlingit ultimately were defeated in their right to govern themselves here, however it is the Tlingit who persisted and live here today. No visit to Sitka is complete without visiting the Sheldon Jackson Museum. This museum represents a vast collection of artifacts from all over Alaska, presented in an intimate and fun way you can explore on your own. Immediately adjoining the museum is the Sitka National Historic Park, where many totem poles stand in the mist-shrouded forest. When you walk here among the icons of the Pacific Northwest in their natural setting, it is as if you are stepping back to a time long forgotten. Sitka is situated on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, and it is here that the raw swells can be seen crashing on the islands protecting its inner harbor and fishing fleet. While in Sitka, there are options to kayak, hike, bike, and/or visit the world famous Raptor Rehabilitation Center where you can come within inches of bald and golden eagles, just to name a few. These birds are here for medical attention and recovery from injury. Some may not have the ability to re-enter the wild. A guided tour of the facilities and a demonstration showing how magnificent and noble these raptors are will be available, and often leaves our guests speechless. Petersburg, Alaska - Surround yourself in Norwegian culture in Petersburg -
Visiting Petersburg is like visiting a little bit of Scandinavia. In 1890, Norwegian immigrant Peter Buschmann arrived and saw that he could use the ice from the nearby LeConte Glacier to build a mill and fish-packing plant at the head of Wrangle Narrows on Mitkoff Island. He chose this location because it reminded him of his beloved homeland. This tiny town, with a population of about 3,300, makes its living off salmon and halibut fishing, and still holds much of the Old World charm and character of a small European town. Homes are decorated with flower boxes and other Scandinavian traditions. Here we will be introduced to Norwegian culture at the Sons of Norway Hall, where we will meet the town children dressed in traditional clothes, and enjoy a performance of time-honored Norwegian dances along with homemade food. The water’s edge and the rainforest surround this tiny town, making you feel as if you are in a tiny slice of Europe. Remnants of old Tlingit fish traps and ancient petroglyphs lie just outside of town. There will be opportunities for free time, flightseeing, and rainforest walks. Only Cruise West can deliver such an intimate visit to this small town. Haines - Watch bald eagles dive for salmon near Haines -
As we cruise our way up to the towns of Skagway and Haines, we will be within one of the largest fjords in the world, Lynn Canal. Lynn Canal stretches many miles and provides a very dramatic backdrop that makes it appear as if we are taking our ship through the Swiss Alps. It is not uncommon to see whales or Steller's sea lions in this stretch of water. We will also pass the Eldred Rock Lighthouse, a lonely sentinel surrounded by jagged peaks of snow, rock, ice, and green-silted waters, and one of the most scenic lighthouses anywhere. This stretch of Lynn Canal, including Haines and Skagway, provides some of the most intense scenic beauty, wildlife sightings, and human history Alaska can offer. When we finally see Haines, it will be at the base of the mighty Chilkat mountain range, with glaciers seemingly flowing down to the edge of town. The setting in Haines is breathtaking. Cruise West’s founder, Chuck West, was so taken with Haines’ beauty and tranquility that he owned a family cabin here. This sleepy little village is dominated by Fort Seward and its colonial structures at the center of town. In 1993, Haines was used to film Jack London’s "White Fang." This small town is quiet and sincere, and its residents make their living by fishing and guiding local visitors by horse, raft, and nature walks. Haines is and has been a Tlingit clan site. Haines provides a very real look at small town life in Alaska. During the winter, up to 4,000 bald eagles congregate in just a few square miles to snatch spawning salmon from the Chilkat River. This spectacle attracts wildlife enthusiasts from around the world, for this happens nowhere else but Haines, Alaska!
- Lynn Canal - Follow the gold prospectors of old through scenic Lynn Canal
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Lynn Canal is a spectacular fjord in Southeast Alaska, 90 miles long and 7 to 12 miles wide. Its southern border connects with Chatham Strait and Stephens Passage and carves north between majestic mountains into the inlets of the Chilkoot and Chilkat Rivers. This navigable passageway connects Skagway, Haines, and Juneau, Alaska, and was the last leg of the voyage north to the gold fields in 1896. Lynn Canal remains an important water transportation highway within northern Southeast Alaska, with stunning scenery of jade-green water lined with jagged mountain peaks topped by icy blue hanging glaciers.
- Metlakatla, Alaska - Visit the Tsimshian Natives in Metlakatla
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Metlakatla is the only native reservation in Alaska, home to approximately 1,400 of the only Tsimshian Natives in the state, and a unique introduction to the native people of the Pacific Northwest. The Tsimshian are primarily a coastal tribe of British Columbia, Canada, but in 1887 this band of Tsimshians immigrated with the permission and protection of the United States and under the guidance of their Anglican clergyman, Father William Duncan, to form a model community. Situated on Annette Island just a short distance away from Ketchikan and right across the border from Canada, the residents of Metlakatla work together to provide for their community. Commercial fishing and processing is the lifeblood of the town, and you will see Annette Island Packing Company perched on stilts over the water. It's been in operation since 1890, and depending on what time of the summer you visit, it may be in operation. Many of the salmon come from Metlakatla's fish traps, the only such traps still allowed in Alaska. Looking for ways to supplement the slump in the timber industry, the town just recently opened a bottled water production facility and is working to market the product to outside consumers. This small community represents a unique example of how ancient rituals can be interwoven with modern life and the values of the west.
- Skagway, Alaska - Step back in time to the Gold Rush days of Skagway
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As you sail into Skagway, you are immediately transported back to 1898. You gaze from the bow of the ship and can just imagine the bustling streets teeming with Stampeders buying last-minute supplies from the multitude of false-fronted businesses that line the boardwalk. In 1898, Skagway was a destination hot spot for over 20,000 men and women with dreams of hiking either the Chilkoot Trail or White Pass to reach their final destination, the gold fields of the Klondike. Today, Skagway is again a preferred destination, popular with history buffs wanting to explore parts of the Klondike Gold Rush International Historical Park, one of the longest in the world, encompassing the whole Inside Passage from Pioneer Square in Seattle all the way to Dawson City in the Yukon Territory. Skagway is also a hit with train enthusiasts who dream of riding the narrow gauge rails of the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad, an International Historical Civil Engineering Landmark, built in 1898 and completed 110 miles later in 1900.
- Wrangell - Look for petroglyphs along the beach in Wrangell
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- Wrangell Island is part of the Alexander Archipelago, seven miles from the mouth and delta of the Stikine River. This frontier town population is 2,308 (2000 census). The Stikine River, running 330 miles from inland British Columbia, is a very important freshwater contribution to the Inside Passage. The powerful Stikine Tlingit tribes inhabited this region for thousands of years, developing a very important trade center at the mouth of this river with the interior Athapaskan tribes. Along the beach north of town remains a very extensive collection of petroglyphs. It is thought that these rock carvings may have been primitive boundary markers for the First Peoples that lived in this area, establishing its importance. The first non-natives to document this region were the Russians, who arrived in 1811, trading for beaver and land otter furs from the Stikine River. By the early 1800's, the British set up Hudson Bay Fur Trading Posts along the river, causing controversy. Wrangell’s colorful pioneer history includes takeovers by the Russian-America Company, then the British, and finally Americans. Wrangell was also a jumping off point for the Gold Rushers, touting Wyatt Earp in their guest book of famous visitors when he stopped in Wrangell en route to the northern gold fields. John Muir also has his place in the Wrangell history books, staying here in his early days of Alaska exploration. For many years, this rough and rugged Wild West town was supported economically primarily by the logging industry, with its sawmill and export of lumber to Japan, and as a fishing hamlet complete with a cannery until the late 1980's. Today, Wrangell continues to redefine itself. The lumber mills have been upgraded and refashioned into a sustainable forest products industry, and the town has become a unique outpost for independent travelers proud of its frontier history and Tlingit roots. The natural setting of the area is the temperate rainforest, complete with abundant wildlife and the complex estuarine system at the mouth of the Stikine, which has become the recreational playground for locals and visitors with its fantastic wildlife sightings, boating, camping, fishing, and hunting.
- Sergius Narrows - Watch for bald eagles and Sitka black-tailed deer in Sergius Narrows
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This narrow waterway is the southern portion of Peril Straits. It provides an approximately 30-mile-long waterway shortcut to Sitka, Alaska, between Baranof and Chichagof islands. Sergius Narrows is a very narrow, zigzag course approximately 300 feet wide, with the tide rushing through at up to 9 to 10 miles per hour. Ships must pass through during “slack tide,” meaning that time when the water is most still between high and/or low tides. Sergius Narrows leads to Kakul Narrows, Salisbury Sound, and the Pacific, narrowing again to lead through Neva and Olga Straits to Sitka Sound and again to the outer west coast of the Pacific and the community of Sitka, Alaska. The exciting passage through Sergius Narrows offers a stunning view of remote, serene forested islands, great opportunity to view many bald eagles and Sitka black-tailed deer along its shores, and sometimes sea otter floating in and around the shallow kelp beds and rocky shorelines. -
- Ketchikan - Walk among historic totem poles in Ketchikan
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Ketchikan has a rich and diverse history, all of which you can see elements of today. This includes its beginning as a fish saltery and salmon cannery - the salmon still spawn in the river that runs through the middle of town. Hanging above this salmon stream are the pilings supporting the buildings that once housed the red light district and helped bootleggers move their whisky unseen at high tide. Today, these same structures hold souvenir shops, bookstores, and restaurants, and await your exploration. In the surrounding hills, gold, copper, and molybdenum were mined. (Molybdenum is a silver metallic element used as an alloy to make high-speed cutting tools.) Ketchikan was crucial during WW II for supplying lightweight cedar for the construction of airplanes. For the next half century, Ketchikan was synonymous with the timber industry. Within the city limits of Ketchikan is the Tlingit village of Saxman, a historical town site that still displays totem poles and a proud sense of its past. You may choose to visit the multimedia center or clan house for an in-depth introduction to the Tlingit culture, including dancing and storytelling. There are also a number of museums that tell the history of this town from a pioneer, native, and modern perspective. Ketchikan is also a favorite for shoppers. Here you will find one of the largest selections of jewelery, native carvings, art, souvenirs, and folk art. The most unique point of interest in Ketchikan is the Tongass National Forest Discovery Center. This first-class education center has true-to-life displays of temperate rainforest, salmon streams, and native structures. It's as if you are stepping into the temperate rainforest! You will leave with an understanding of just how complex an ecosystem the temperate rainforest is.
- Juneau - Visit the most beautiful capital in the U.S.
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Although Juneau is the state capital of Alaska, it seems to be situated in the middle of nowhere. Juneau is only reachable by plane or boat. This small, isolated city must be the most picturesque state capital in North America, with mountains and waterfalls visible right behind downtown and the Capitol building. Only a few minutes walk from the Capitol building and you are in the woods on a mountain slope. Bears have been spotted in downtown Juneau at night--note that all the downtown garbage receptacles are “bear proof.” There is much excitement in Juneau as it is the hub for state politics, cruise ships, and still has the taste of an old mining frontier town. This allows a number of services to exist in Juneau like no other town you will visit. Kayaking, hiking, nature walks, salmon bakes, and flightseeing combined with ice climbing, glacier trekking, dog mushing, and bear viewing are just some of the things you can explore. Or perhaps you would like time on your own to visit one of the many museums, cafes, and bookshops downtown. If you want to get away from it all, the tram up Mt. Robert's will whisk you out of town to the mountain tops. There is so much to do in this small city in the middle of the Alaskan wilderness.
- Anchorage - Discover the "Big City" pleasures of Anchorage
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- Anchorage is the largest community in Alaska with 270,000 residents. The town was founded in 1914, and within one year, the Alaska Railroad made Anchorage its hub. In 1915, Anchorage became a tent city of 2,000 people following the ‘Great Anchorage Lot Sale.’ The land auction sold lots for an average of $225 each. The city of Anchorage became officially incorporated in 1920. Major military impact allowed for the growth of Anchorage between 1939 and 1957. Roads were built and airports were constructed, allowing for continual growth of the city, and the port of Anchorage was completed in the early 1960s. In 1964, the Good Friday Earthquake demolished a large part of the town. The quake registered 9.2 on the Richter Scale, killing 131 people. Downtown Anchorage and residential areas suffered massive land slide damage. During the 1970s, Anchorage experienced another major economic boom with the construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The economy continues to thrive on natural resource production, along with finance and real estate, government agencies, tourism and transportation. Downtown Anchorage offers a variety of shops and enjoyable cafes and restaurants. You will enjoy your day of sightseeing, traveling south along the Turnagain Arm, a beautiful trip by motorcoach to view Cook Inlet, and looking for mountain goats along the Chugach Mountain Range. You will visit the Alyeska Resort and partake in a scenic tram ride to the summit. Later in the day you will travel northeast to the Alaska Native Heritage Center and have the wonderful opportunity to learn about the various native cultures in Alaska. Members of different tribes conduct education workshops, discussing their history, customs, and way of life.
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